divendres, 29 d’abril de 2011

The Previous Hours

The previous hours to a compe are kind of bizarre. You're used to be training a lot and geting tired. But some days befor a goal you have to slow down. I used to feel a lot of pressure some days before, but finaly I understood that all the work is allready done, and that's the important part of the path...
Last weeks have been very busy. A lot of training and focusing. Lots of thoughts trespassing my mind. Lots of feelings. Tiredness. Lots of choices and hard desitions to be made. A lot of sacrifice, in many diferent ways. Few rock climbing... Last weeks have been very busy...

Starting about two months ago, after some hardcore training weeks, Nacho an I decided to go to the CWIF for some training, and it was awsome!
When we came back, we had inmediatly another comp in Simat de la Valldigna, and we also used it as a quality training. Despite of the rainy rainy day, it was fun.
After that, I decided to go to Madrid to train with Pavi and Nacho in Alcorcón, where by the way, people is very nice ;-)
Thing is Nacho was close on his project, so he rested a couple of days. I trained in Alcorcón boulder gym on Monday and on Tuesday moornig, before going for some rock with Pavi, Martina and Gu (BaboonMaster). We had a very nice climbing session on el Farallón, Bayuela, with a lot of volume.

the game extension from Ignasi Tarrazona Gasque on Vimeo.

After tha we mooved to la Clínica sector, where Nacho had his entropía project. He arrived when it was almost night, and waited til it was dark and cool. And he sended.

Nacho Sánchez climbs Entropía 8c boulder from Ignasi Tarrazona Gasque on Vimeo.

Day after we both went to Boulder King Gym and had nice training session.
We spent the weekend in Zarzalejo on Saturday and Bayuela on Sunday, where we took some pics of Nacho on his latest achivement. And Pavi spayed Gu's pad. It was fun. And we were some more. Davilo, LuisFer, Mulero, JaviPec, Carles, Manu, Lara, Ayllon... It was fun.And then, more plastic... and another trainning comp. This time in Biar.

Also, Miha came form Slovenia to spend a weekend xpress in Chulilla. After the comp I went with him to belay him for a coples of days. We stayed at Pedro's new Hostel, wich is about to be finished very soon.

After driving Miha to the airport, I went straight to the boulder gym...
And more training...
And more...
And some more.
Then Juantxo told me to do some projection at the university mountain club, so I projected some videos from last summer trip.
And Milan WC has arrived.

And some more final training before national Boulder Champ, taking place tomorrow in Barcelona.
As I sayed, all work is already done. Let's see how it goes ;-)A MUERTEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

diumenge, 24 d’abril de 2011

The Game Extension, Castillo de Bayuela

the game extension from Ignasi Tarrazona Gasque on Vimeo.

Between some training sessions I managed to go outside looking for some rock for three separate on March 2011. This is The Game Extension, 8a on El Castillo de Bayuela, Toledo, Spain. That day was great, beside the fact I've been long time without touching real rock, we where some friends there climbing a lot, pushing all together, laughing out loud... and at the end of the day we witnessed Nacho's masterpice sending. I gotta go back there!!!!!!!!

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dijous, 21 d’abril de 2011

First 2011 Boulder WC: Milan

La setmana passada va ser a Milan la primera prova de la Copa del Mon de Boulder 2011.
El nivell és cada vegada més alt, i alli estabem, representant la FEDME, Nacho, Bruno i jo.
Varem sortir dijous. Després de la gran matinada per anar a l'aeroport, haguerem d'esperar unes quantes hores a causa dels delays per culpa de la boira. Així que, només arribar a Milan, ens va tocar anar corrent a les inscripcions i reunió tècnica.Les eliminatòries varen tindre lloc el divendre de matí.Nacho va fer 3 de 5 blocs proposats. Per la meua part, vaig poder fer 2 tops, i vaig caure a puntet d'agafar altres 2, cosa que m'haguera situat a semis, però la competició és així, i vaig acabar en la posició 39.Bruno, a l'altre grup, va quedar el 43.Nacho, que havia passat pels pels a semis, va fer una gran actució quedant en una molt bona 13 posició gràcies als dos bonus a vista, encara que també va caure a punt d'agafar el primer top.A banda del resultat, vaig tindre bones sensacions, controlant l'estrés i llegint prou be, i aquesta és només la primera compe d'una llarga temporada internacional, en la que hem d0agafar tota l'experiència possible.La propera gran cita serà el Campionat d'Espanya de Bloc, que tindrà lloc a Barna en menys de dues setmanes, el 30 d'Abril, i a la següent, Slovenia!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!